Nepal first came into world focus when Tenzing Norgay Sherpa of Nepal and Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand conquered Mt. Everest in 1953. Ever since, there have been countless expeditions heading off to the Himalayas. With eight of world’s highest peaks within Nepal’s boundaries, there is tremendous interest in the Nepal Himalaya. Most of the peaks over 8000m high were conquered during the Golden Decade of Climbing in the 1950s. Climbing by then had become a national affair with various nations vying with each other to be the first to climb. Today it is all about breaking records. There are some 326 peaks in Nepal open for mountaineering today.
Climbing permits for peaks in the Nepal Himalayas are issued for all seasons by the Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation. The requisite official documents must be furnished when seeking permission to climb. Around 121 peaks do not require liaison officers for expedition while the rest must be accompanied by one.
Climbing gear and equipments can be bought or rented in Kathmandu or the whole expedition can be handled by mountaineering and trekking agencies. All logistics are taken care of by these agencies including gear, food, transportation, guide and porter services. They also arrange for insurance coverage. Always choose an agency that has a good track record. (90 % ok).
Highest Peaks in Nepal
There are 1,310 peaks above 6000 meters of which 238 are open for climbing. The following are Nepalese peaks over 8000m in height and open for climbing:Mt. Everest (8,848m),. Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Cho Oyu (8,201m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m), Manaslu (8,163m) and Annapurna (8,091m).
This category is similar to challenging treks, however, includes basic mountaineering above the snow line using ice axe, crampons ropes and necessary climbing gears under the supervision and instruction from the climbing leader/guide.
A person wanting to do this type of expedition needs psychological and physical stamina plus prior experience. Minimum 30 days required for the trekking and mountaineering. We have some Himalayas day by day program. Please write us for your requirements and we shall forward you the more detail with approximately cost.
The royalty and size of the expedition team: Rules effective from 1996 spring ascent route of Everest:
(1) South East Ridge normal route Royalty of US$ 70,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha (Everest) for a team consisting of 7 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if paid extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted 3 months visa.
(2) Route south pillar Everest, south west face south west face (Central Pillar) royalty up to 7 members US$ 50,000 and the may include 5 more members provided if paid extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member.
Nepal Expedition(3) The team already permitted to scale Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US$ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south East Ridge route.
(4) Garbage deposit US$ 4,000 each team. Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from the team which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.
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