Baruntse Expedition (7129 m) - 33 Days

max altitude 7129 m
Group Type 2-12
Trip grade NA

The potential for climbing "east of Everest" was first recognised by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of that team, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents, of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse being made on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow.

They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent. The South-East Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 metres to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.

                  Trip Highlights
                  Summit Mt. Baruntse 7129 m
Spectacular views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Amadablam and khumbu region.
view of snow caped himalayas, trekking through khumbu region.
Authentic Sherpa culture and their lifestyle of khumbu region.
                

Outline Itinerary

Day 01:    Arrival Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02:    preparation for expedition.
Day 03:    Expedition Briefing in tourism Board
Day 04:    Fly to Lukla and Trek to chutanga.
Day 05:    Chutanga to Naulek camp
Day 06:    Naulek to Kothey camp
Day 07:    Kothey to Thangnak camp
Day 08:    Thangnak to Khare camp
Day 09:    Khare to Mera base camp
Day 10:    Mera base camp to Mera High camp
Day 11:    Mera summit and back to mera base camp
Day 12:    Mera base camp to setopokhari
Day 13:    Setopokhari to Baruntse Base camp
Day 14 -26th climbing period of Baruntse 7129m
Day 27:    Baruntse Base camp to Amphu lapcha base camp
Day 28:    Amphulapcha cross and O/N in camp
Day 29-32:     trek down to Lukla
Day 33:    Lukla to Kathmandu.

Full Board Service Details

What's included

Expedition climbing Permit.
4 night 3*star hotel in Katmandu.
Flight ticket: KTM-LUK-KTM
Experiences climbing Sherpa 2:1
All transportation expedition purpose.
Airport picks up and drops.
Liaison Officer Charge.
Expedition Guide and Cook, kitchen boys.
All kitchen equipments.
High altitude tents for high camps.
Private tent at base camp with mattress.
Dining Tents, kitchen tents, toilet tents,
All Necessary climbing gear except personal climbing gears.
Necessary number of porters to carry load and member baggage.
Porter’s equipment during the expedition.
All staff insurance.
All staff salary and porters wages.
All meal for member and staff during the expedition.
Quality high altitude dried foods & individual packet food.
EPI gas with burner for high camp.
Oxygen cylinder and Mask regulator for medical purpose!!
Gamow /PAC bag at base camp
First Aid Kit for all.

Communication :

Walky –Talky set
Sat phone pay call basis.

Power supply:

solar panel for recharging purpose( camera ,sat phone, light in dining tents)

What's not included

High risk medical insurance
Visa& visa extension fees
Emergency rescue Evacuation if needed.
Persona climbing equipment
Summit bonus of climbing sherpa
Tips for you expedition staff
Alcohol beverages & telephone calls, mineral water.
Lunch & dinner during Katmandu staying

Trip Map

Detail Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Transfer to Hotel

Arrive at Kathmandu International Airport.
Transfer to your hotel for rest and preparation.
Briefing about the itinerary and general overview of the expedition.

Day 02: Preparation for Expedition

Visit local gear shops for any last-minute equipment or clothing.
Meet with the expedition team (guides, porters, and other participants).
Ensure all paperwork, permits, and logistics are in order.
Optional sightseeing in Kathmandu if time permits.

Day 03: Expedition Briefing at the Tourism Board

Attend the official expedition briefing at the Tourism Board to finalize permits.
Review safety guidelines, expedition protocol, and the plan.
Final discussions on gear, weather updates, and the climbing schedule.

Day 04: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Chutanga

Morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m).
Trek from Lukla to Chutanga (3,050m), which takes around 4-5 hours.
Acclimatization walk and settle into the camp for the night.

Day 05: Chutanga to Naulek Camp

Trek from Chutanga to Naulek Camp (3,450m).
The journey takes approximately 5–6 hours, with gradual ascents.
Rest and acclimatize to the altitude.

Day 06: Naulek to Kothey Camp

Trek from Naulek to Kothey Camp (3,700m).
The trek will take about 5–6 hours.
Enjoy scenic views along the way and take it easy to help with acclimatization.

Day 07: Kothey to Thangnak Camp

Trek from Kothey to Thangnak (4,350m).
The trek is about 4–5 hours, through alpine meadows and forests.
Settle into camp and rest.

Day 08: Thangnak to Khare Camp

Trek from Thangnak to Khare (5,045m).
The trek takes about 4 hours.
Khare is a great spot for acclimatization and to rest before the summit push.

Day 09: Khare to Mera Base Camp

Trek from Khare to Mera Base Camp (5,300m).
The trek is about 5–6 hours, and you’ll be above the tree line, with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.
Acclimatize at base camp and check equipment.

Day 10: Mera Base Camp to Mera High Camp

Trek from Mera Base Camp to Mera High Camp (5,800m).
The trek will take around 4–5 hours, with a gradual ascent.
You’ll be at high altitude, so ensure proper hydration and take it slow.
Rest and prepare for the summit bid.

Day 11: Mera Summit and Back to Mera Base Camp

Early morning departure for Mera Summit (6,476m).
The summit push will take 8–10 hours, depending on conditions.
After summiting, descend back to Mera Base Camp for rest and recovery.

Day 12: Mera Base Camp to Setopokhari

Trek from Mera Base Camp to Setopokhari (4,300m).
The descent and trek to Setopokhari take around 6–7 hours.
Setopokhari is a peaceful spot to rest and further acclimatize.

Day 13: Setopokhari to Baruntse Base Camp

Trek from Setopokhari to Baruntse Base Camp (5,300m).
The trek will take approximately 5–6 hours.
Enjoy breathtaking views of Baruntse and the surrounding peaks.

Day 14–26: Climbing Period for Baruntse (7,129m)

A climbing period of 13 days is allocated for summit attempts and acclimatization.
Camp 1 (6,000m): The first camp will be established as a higher-altitude base.
Camp 2 (6,500m): Climb to this camp as you move closer to the summit.
Summit Push: The final push to the summit of Baruntse (7,129m) will typically take 10-12 hours.
Return to Base Camp after summiting.
Take the necessary time for acclimatization and rest throughout the climbing period.

Day 27: Baruntse Base Camp to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp

After descending from Baruntse, trek from Baruntse Base Camp to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (5,300m).
The trek will take around 5 hours.
Settle in and prepare for the technical crossing of Amphu Lapcha.

Day 28: Amphu Lapcha Cross and Overnight in Camp

Early start for the Amphu Lapcha Pass crossing (5,780m).
The pass involves technical rock and ice climbing, requiring proper gear and guides.
Cross the pass and descend to an overnight camp on the other side.
Celebrate the successful crossing!

Day 29–32: Trek Down to Lukla

Begin the descent from Amphu Lapcha, heading toward Lukla.
The trek will take around 4 days, covering diverse terrain.
Gradually descend through remote villages and lush forests.
Arrive in Lukla on Day 32 for a well-earned rest.

Day 33: Lukla to Kathmandu

Fly from Lukla back to Kathmandu.
Transfer to your hotel, where you can rest and celebrate the successful completion of your expedition.
Evening farewell dinner with the expedition team.

Trip Video

Group Equipment H.E Nepal provides

Doman tents and mattress twin sharing basis
Kitchen /Dining tents
Kitchen equipments
Toilet tent
Climbing rope: fixed and main rope
Harness
Crampons
Ice-Axe
Karabiners : lock/ unlock
Ice-screws
Snow Bars
Rock piton
Helmet
Ascender ( Jummer)
Descender( F-8)
Tapes / slings

Personal Hard ware Gears climber has to manage

Climbing boots: plastics boot/or similar quality Need fixed crampons.
Long sleeved cotton /woolen shirts
Wool long under wear
Long cotton hiking shirts
Warm climbing trousers
Light weight fleece
Fleece/ wool for climbing
Down high altitude sleeping bag (3, 4 session)
Sleeping pad (carry mat) or thermo mat
Light cotton athletic socks and wool climbing socks
Light weight thermal/ insulated climbing gloves
Head torch /batteries /bulbs
Water proof climbing jacket
Down jacket /trousers/vest
Climbing sunglasses
Sun screen
Sun hat
Gaiters

Client Review(s)

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"Encredible adventure"

Rating:

The Mera Peak and Baruntse expedition was an incredible adventure from start to finish. The trek up to Mera Base Camp was challenging but rewarding, with plenty of time for acclimatization, which made the summit feel like a real accomplishment. Standing on the top of Mera Peak was unforgettable, with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains that left me in awe. The climb to Baruntse, especially crossing Amphu Lapcha Pass, pushed me to my limits, but the sense of achievement once we completed it was well worth the effort. The guides and support team were fantastic—knowledgeable, supportive, and always there when we needed them. This journey is ideal for anyone wanting a tough yet unforgettable climbing experience in the Himalayas.

John McNeil, United States

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