Saribung Peak (6,328 m) is a challenging expedition that combines a long, remote high-altitude trek through the Upper Mustang and Nar-Phu valleys with a moderately technical summit..
Key Challenges
- Technical Difficulty: The climb itself is not considered highly technical, but it requires the use of ropes, crampons, and ice axes, especially on the glacier crossing, the ascent ridge, and the final summit push. The route often involves ice and snow sections, crevasses, and a challenging ridge crossing near the summit.
- Climbing Grade: Strenuous or Extreme - requires good physical fitness, high-altitude experience, and basic mountaineering skills. Some sources classify the peak as Scottish Grade I/Alpine F (Facile).
- Glacier and Snow: The route involves travel across glaciers and snow/ice fields, especially around the Saribung La Pass and the final ascent. This necessitates experience with glacier travel techniques, fixed ropes, and self-arrest with an ice axe.
- Remoteness: The region is very isolated, particularly after leaving Lo Manthang.
- Approach: Guided expeditions follow the standard South-West arête. The ascent is a sustained and committing climb involving approximately 20 pitches on steep snow and ice slopes.
Typically starts with a long, remote trek through the Upper Mustang region (often starting from Jomsom and passing through Lo Manthang) to reach Base Camp.
- Base Camp to Camp 1: Glacier Familiarization - Ascend over moraines and the glacier to establish or stock Camp 1. This section is generally non-technical but requires careful navigation of the glacier. Descend back to Base Camp.
- Camp 1 to Camp 2: Route Fixing and Acclimatization - Climb from C1 to C2, which often involves traversing steeper, sometimes icy, slopes and scree, requiring the use of fixed ropes. Sleep at C2 (or C1) before descending for final rest.
- Summit Push: After adequate rest, move up the mountain with the intention of going to the top. The ascent plan involves sleeping one night each at Camp 1, Camp 2 and Camp 3. From Camp 3 the route involves climbing a steep 45∘-50∘ snow and ice slope for the final 1,100m to the summit. The round trip can last 10 to 14 hours.
- Exposure and Altitude: The peak is one of the higher "trekking peaks" and the expedition is long, with many days spent above 4,000m and 5,000m.
- Objective Hazards: The route involves travel across glaciers and snow/ice fields, especially around the Saribung La Pass and the final ascent. This necessitates experience with glacier travel techniques, fixed ropes, and self-arrest with an ice axe.