Abiral Rai

IFMGA/UIAGM Climbing Guide
Abiral Rai

Abiral is a certified IFMGA, UIAGM, NNMGA mountain guide, and has led expedition teams to 21 mountains in Nepal, including Everest, Lhotse and Manaslu. He is the first Everest summiteer from Thulung Rai community, and the first ever IFMGA guide from the Rai community, an indigenous community from eastern Nepal.

Experience

Abiral has been working in the tourism and mountaineering industry for more than 13 years. He started at the bottom of the ladder as a porter, and eventually climbed up to a trekking guide and is now a UIAGM certified mountain guide.

As a mountain guide, he has led expeditions to various mountains ranging from 6,000m to 8,000ers. He is also an avid photographer. In 2022, he guided the Nepal Army’s expedition team to Everest as part of the Nepal Government’s Mountain Clean-up Campaign.

Instructor & Volunteer Mountaineering Courses

  • Aspirant Guide Course Component III, 2024
  • Intermediate Mountaineering Course (IMC), 2024 
  • Aspirant Guide Course Component II, 2024
  • Ice Level One Course as a Chief Instructor, 2023.
  • Nepalese Diploma in Mountain Medicine (DiMM) 2023.
  • Aspirant Guide Course Component I, 2023. 
  • Introductory Rock-Climbing Course 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021.
  • Basic Mountain Navigation & Hill Walking Training 2021.
  • Rock Climbing Level One Courses 2017, 2018, 2020,2022.
  • Basic Mountain Rescue Courses 2017.
  • High Mountain Rescue Training 2018.

Skills & Trainings

  1. Wilderness First Responder (WFR) SOLO, 2024.
  2. National Skill Certification | Mountain Guide Level Four. 2022. CTEVT.   
  3. Advance Level Ski Course, Switzerland & France. 2022. Nepal Mountain Academy.
  4. Training of Trainer (TOT) 2021 | NMIA
  5. RECCO Operator Course, 2020 | Recco and Simrik Air
  6. Ski level Two, 2020 | Nepal Mountain Academy
  7. Diploma in Mountain Guide (IFMGA/UIAGM/IVBV) 2019. 
  8. Ski Level One, 2019 | Nepal Mountain Academy.
  9. General Training of Trainers Course, 2027 | HCMS.
  10. Aspirant Guide, 2016 | NNMGA/NMA.
  11. Heli Marshall Course, 2016 | NMA.
  12. High Mountain Rescue Training, 2015 | NMIA.
  13. Advance Mountaineering Training, 2014 | NMA.
  14. Rock Climbing Course Level One, 2013 | NMIA.
  15. Advance Ice Climbing Course, 2012 | Khumbu Climbing Center.
  16. Basic Mountaineering Course, 2012 | Alpine Association of Slovenia.
  17. Trekking Guide Training, 2011 | NATHAM.
  18. Basic Rescue Training, 2011 | NMIA.
  19. Hill Walking & Navigation Course, 2011 | NMIA.
  20. Introductory Rock-Climbing Course, 2010 | NMIA.

Expedition Summary of Himalaya & Nepal

8000+ Mountaineering Experiences & Guiding

Year

Mountain Name

Altitude

Remarks

2025

Mt. Everest

8700m.

South Summit

2024

Mt. Everest

8848.86m.

Summited

2023

Mt. Everest

8848.86m.

South Summit, 8749m

2022

Mt. Manaslu

8163m.

Up to Camp III, 7900m

2022

Mt. Everest

8848.68m.

Summited

2021

Mt. Manaslu Winter Ascent

8163m.

Up to Camp II, 6600m

2019/2024

Mt. Lhotse

8516m.

Up to Collar 8200m

2017

Mt. Everest

8848.86m.

Up to Balcony 8400m

2014

Mt. Everest

8848.86m.

Up to Camp II, 6500m

2012

Manaslu

8163m.

Up to Camp II,6400m

7000+ Mountaineering Experiences & Guiding

Year

Mountain Name

Altitude

Remarks

2025

Mt. Aconcagua

6960m.

Summited

2013/16/19

Mt. Baruntse

7129m

Summited, 3 times

2018/18/19/24

Mt. Himlung

7126m.

Summited, 4 times

2014/15/16/18

Mt. Amadablam

6812m.

Summited, 5 times

6000+ Mountaineering Experiences & Guiding

Year

Mountain Name

Altitude

Remarks

2015/16/18/19/23/24

Chulo far East

6059m.

Summited, 4 times

2021

Pisang Peak

6091m.

Summited

2011/12/13/14/15/16/17/21/22

Island Peak

6189m.

Summited, 36 times

2013/14/15/16/17/23/24/25

Lubuche Peak

6119m.

Summited, 27 times

2011/12/13/17/18/23/25

Mera Peak

6454m.

Summited, 13 times

2013

Abi Peak

6097m.

Summited

2013

Pokalde Peak

5806m.

Summited

2014

Pharchamo Peak

6186m.

Summited